Virginie Viard’s debut as the creative director of CHANEL saw her seamlessly step into the shoes of the legendary Karl Lagerfeld. Her first Cruise collection, unveiled in 2020, was a testament to her understanding of the house's legacy while simultaneously forging her own distinct vision. Titled "Balade en Méditerranée," (A Mediterranean Stroll), the CHANEL Cruise 2020/21 collection was a vibrant ode to the sun-drenched landscapes and effortless elegance of the French Riviera, a location deeply intertwined with the history of the brand itself. Captured beautifully by Julien Pujol, the collection, available in boutiques from November of that year, remains a touchstone of contemporary CHANEL design.
This collection wasn't merely a showcase of clothes; it was a narrative, a journey through the Mediterranean's captivating beauty. The setting itself, a dramatic cliffside location, enhanced the collection's inherent romanticism and laid-back luxury. The clothes, in turn, reflected this setting, embodying a sense of relaxed sophistication. Viard masterfully blended the classic CHANEL codes with a fresh, youthful energy, resulting in a collection that felt both timeless and utterly contemporary.
The palette was a celebration of the Mediterranean's diverse hues. Soft creams and sandy beiges were juxtaposed with vibrant blues reminiscent of the sea, punctuated by pops of sunny yellow and bold, rich reds. These colours weren't just applied haphazardly; they were carefully woven into intricate patterns and designs, reflecting the artistry and craftsmanship that are synonymous with the CHANEL name. Think of flowing silks in sunset shades, crisp cottons in maritime blues, and luxurious tweeds in earthy tones – each fabric carefully selected to enhance the overall feeling of effortless chic.
The silhouettes were equally evocative. Flowing maxi dresses, perfect for a leisurely stroll along the coast, were balanced by structured jackets and tailored trousers, providing a sense of polished elegance. The iconic CHANEL tweed suit, a cornerstone of the brand's heritage, was reimagined in lighter, more breathable fabrics, suitable for warmer climates. These weren't stuffy, formal suits; they were relaxed, effortlessly stylish interpretations of a classic, perfect for both day and evening wear. The collection also featured a plethora of playful details: delicate lace, intricate embroidery, and playful embellishments that added a touch of whimsy without compromising the overall sophistication.
The accessories played a pivotal role in completing the Mediterranean dream. The CHANEL Cruise 2021 bags were particularly noteworthy, showcasing a range of styles that complemented the clothing perfectly. From structured totes perfect for carrying essentials to smaller, more delicate bags ideal for evening events, the accessories were as thoughtfully designed as the garments themselves. The signature CHANEL quilting was present, but it was often reinterpreted, appearing in softer, more fluid forms. The hardware, too, was a key element, with gold and silver accents adding a touch of understated glamour.
While the Cruise 2020/21 collection held its own distinct identity, it also served as a bridge between the past and the future of CHANEL. It paid homage to the brand's rich history while simultaneously hinting at the exciting new direction Viard would take the house. This ability to seamlessly blend tradition and innovation is a hallmark of Viard's design philosophy, and the Cruise 2020/21 collection is a prime example of her mastery.
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